Cape Cod Magazine / January 2012 / Food Lovers Guide from A to Z

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Food Lovers Guide from A to Z

Arugula
Ask for Eruca vesicaria at a local farmstand or market, and it may not ring a bell. But call out its common name—arugula or rocket—and this green comes forward with a deep, jewel-like color. More stem than leaf, this member of the mustard clan shows up year-round and layers well with beets, goat or blue cheese, figs, and tomatoes. Peppery arugula flirts oh-so-nicely with winter’s vibrant blood orange.

Beach Plum Chef
For Dana Dunbar, life’s journey is all about dabbling in good, nutritious fare. With a chef satchel of fresh, organic foods, she fills you to the brim with custom, fine-dining choices from an artistic mix of local flavors. Seems fitting Chef Dana picked our hearty, native shrub, Prunus maritima, the beach plum, for the name of her personal chef/dinner party service.        
www.beachplumchef.com

Churrascaro at the Brazilian Grill
Churrasqueiros, or meat masters, circle the aisles in festive garb with sharp knives, but the dripping skewers of meat steal the show. A South American style rotisserie, churrascaro owes its origins to the fireside roasts of the gaúchos of southern Brazil. The lineup of beef, chicken, pork and lamb at this Hyannis hotspot lingers long after the last bite. 680 Main St., Hyannis,
www.braziliangrill-capecod.com

Dandelion Greens
Sprinkle a few atop a mixed salad, and this nutrient-rich spring tonic will calm your upset stomach. Rich in vitamins A and C, the barb-shaped leaves (the name comes from the French dent de lion, meaning “lion’s tooth”) have an intensely earthy, bitter flavor. Always taste a leaf before you bag one. Cook the darker less tender ones and give the boiling water a heavy hand of salt; those little weeds will brighten up with flavor.

Edible Cape Cod
Like the local farmers who till and harvest the
land, Edible Cape Cod—a member of the Edible Communities, a network of locally-owned food publications—helps nurture the seed for the Cape’s food movement. Owner/editors Dianne and Doug Langeland turn the spotlight on our rich bounty of farmers, food artisans, restaurants, and the like. In turn, they received the coveted “2011 Award for Publication of the Year” from the JamesBeard Foundation.
www.ediblecapecod.com

Fromage à Trois
Kathleen Kadlik handcrafts beautiful cheeses and kneads pasta like fine art. Mozzarella, burrata, Armenian string cheese, and more span the case at farmers’ markets and at her retail shop in West Barnstable. But what’s the skinny on burrata? Still-warm mozzarella cheese filled with cream and stracciatella (the curds remaining from fresh mozzarella) is a decadent cream-on-cream force. In a pinch, her fresh, hand-pulled mozzarella is a warm, worthy match. 2455 Meetinghouse Way, West Barnstable.
www.fromageatroiscapecod.com

Grapenut Custard at Scargo Café
Hands-down, this pudding-like confection—rich with vanilla, nutmeg and cinnamon—is the cream of the crop at Scargo Café. Grape-Nuts (yes, the cereal!) settle in the sweetened mix and cook to a soft, subtle texture. To get that light, creamier taste from gentle heat and slower cooking, nest the custard dish in a larger pan filled with hot water. Called a bain marie, this water bath stops those tricky eggs from curdling every time. 799 Main St., Dennis, www.scargocafe.com

HOGtoberfest  
Nantucket’s 4th annual HOGtoberfest hits the island in mid-October. Last year, two award-winning pork masters hot off the Aspen trail—Chef Michael LaScola of Nantucket’s American Seasons and Chef Matt Jennings of Providence’s The Farmstead and La Laiterie—fired up the weekend burners for “low-on-the-pig” cuts.

Infused Oils and Vinegarsat Gustare  
Raise the bar—the salad bar, that is. Gussy up those greens, vegetables, or meat with Gustare’s artisan oils and vinegars. Purveyors Dave and Catherine Ferraresi pull out all the stops—to taste and bottle—their worldly private collection. Smooth, rich oils and bright, lively vinegars slowly steep in herbs or fruit until fully flavored. 425 Main St., Chatham, and 4 North St., Mashpee.
www.gustareoliveoil.com

Jam at Green Briar Jam Kitchen
Making jam, jellies, relishes or pickles no longer needs to be a sticky situation. Under the Jam Kitchen’s doting eye, women and men move together in homespun tradition dating back to 1903. At every workshop, people gush with pleasure over fruits and sugar stirred the old-fashioned way. With only six ingredients, Green Briar’s cranberry-pear-jam couldn’t be sweeter or easier. But be sure to zest only the yellow part of the lemon. The white pith underneath could sour the day. 6 Discovery Hill Rd., East Sandwich.
www.thorntonburgess.org/GreenBriarJamKitchen.htm

Kayak Cookies
Even Clementine and Daisy Mae—Terri Horn’s two Golden Labradors—can spot a tasty, human treat when they see one. “Salty Oats,” created by their master, a former-pastry-chef, give rise to organic cookies rolled in Maldon sea salt. Coined “subtly sweet, curiously salty,” her flavorful mix sweetens the map in artisan markets and shops across the Northeast. Terri’s know-how: Add an extra ¼–½ teaspoon salt when making chocolate chip cookies to boost flavor. Chop chocolate by hand for added texture.
www.kayakcookies.com

Lobster Tapas by Chef Jamie Spencer and Chef Shawn CusTer
We love to crack our quintessential crustacean wide open and two chefs—Jamie Spencer from Trevi Café & Wine Bar and Shawn Custer from Mooncussers Tavern—are turning it out in a small and unexpected way. Chef Jamie dunks sweet meat in a batter, crisped up like a fritter for you to try. Chef Shawn marries pieces of claw with lemon aioli (pictured). Remember, only 20–25 percent of a lobster is edible meat. Grab a two-pounder to yield 6-8 ounces. 25 Market St., Mashpee, www.trevicafe.com; 86 Sisson Rd., Harwich Port,
www.mooncusserstavern.com

Mussels by Chef Toby Hill
Mussels—bivalve mollusks—have reigned supreme
as a food staple over the last 20,000 years. The creamy-tan meat can be tougher than that of the oyster or clam. Pain D’Avignon’s Chef Toby Hill steps up to the plate with his French recipe for Moules au Vin Blanc. He brightens their slightly-sweet flavor with the fresh, lemony taste of Alsace Riesling. 15 Hinckley Rd.,Hyannis.
www.paindavignon.com

Neo the One by Chef Paul Lively
Even Chef Lively’s new bride loves the decadent taste of her culinary genius’s confections. This chef melts and chills his mélange of chocolate and rolls every sweet, irresistible piece by hand.  Neo the One tied all our knots with the real deal: Tuscany black and white truffles hand-shaved into a chocolate ganache truffle. But make room for the new Neptune 108: a chocolate-cranberry ball with caramel, Fuji apples and candied ginger. 2628 Main St., Brewster.
www.chefpaulstruffles.com

Oysters from Moon Shoal Farm
The eastern oyster—Crassostrea virginica—carries the same name up and down the Eastern coast, but this delicacy’s shape and taste vary with each farmer’s aquacultural touch. With “gentle persistence,” Moon Shoal Farm’s proprietors Kate and Jon Martin harvest their oysters from seed to market in Barnstable Harbor. This 18-to-24-month labor of love opens up the grill to superb, smoky flavors. Nestle your shucked, roly-poly oysters in rock salt before baking. Serve with a citrus-chilled mignonette.

Pollock    
Move over, Cod—hello Pollock, its close relative. With its record-breaking weights of up to 35 pounds, this delicate-tasting fish rich in omega-3 fatty acids makes for great steaks and fillets or can be cooked whole. Even the mighty angler gets quickly lured back to the sea to jig and catch more of his healthy share. But how’s a person to prepare this white, meaty flesh? Any cod recipe will do.

Quicks Hole Lobster Tacos
With a restaurant that touts “wicked fresh” food, the summer rush stays on to see what’s cooking with Chef Stephanie Mikolazyk. Succulent lobster served in either a corn or flour tortilla is a tasty move for people chasing a corn, gluten-free option. Meaty chunks of this sweet-tasting gem—more lobster than mayonnaise—take a tossing with lemon and basil. Bright, lively tacos shake things up in a fiesta of flavors with sides that kick it up a notch. A sweet peach habanero puckers your palate. 6 Luscombe Ave., Woods Hole
www.quicksholewickedfresh.com

Red Flannel Hash at Hangar B Eatery
What’s normally considered standard fare, a dish of finely chopped meat (often corned beef) fried with potatoes, is anything but standard at Hangar B Eatery. Red flannel hash with its medley of sweet and salty pairings—beets, potatoes, bacon and onion—leaves you salivating for more. Thanks to Chef Brian Erskine, his hash imparts umami: that fifth taste that leaves the palate with a unique sensation. To think it comes from hash—heavenly hash topped with horseradish crème! 240 George Ryder Rd., Chatham
www.hangarbcapecod.com

Seaweed Pudding
We may not give thanks for the primitive sea plant—a member of the algae family—when it first washes up to shore. But nature’s abundance of seaweed, with one of its species, Irish moss, imparts a flavor that sends a chill to your taste buds. Blancmange, with its white, slightly purplish color, infused with milk or cream and sugar, is airy and light-tasting. Be sure to rinse Irish moss well or your chilled, soft texture could turn to a sandy grit.

Turkey at Miss Scarlett’s Blue Ribbon Farm
Good things do come in small packages on Miss Scarlett’s 33-acre farm. We get excited over farmer Susan Richardson Knieriem’s baby turkeys on “her back 40,” her land’s playful nickname. She cradles them with chemical-free grain and watches their free-frolicking ways like a hawk. Trust this farmer’s heritage breed—even Ben Franklin favored a heritage variety for America’s holiday fare. Packed full of flavor, this noble bird slices its fair share of white and dark meat. Ten to 18 pounds not enough? Two will double the pleasure. 555 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port.
www.missscarlettsblueribbonfarm.com

Unagi at Misaki Sushi
Unagi—Japanese, freshwater eel—is quite the class act at Misaki Sushi. Freshwater eel always comes to Misaki’s table dressed warm and finished with a sweet, eel sauce. The array of serving options makes this high source of protein, with Vitamin A and calcium, a healthy and flavorful one. Sashimi, sushi, maki rolls, or the Dragon Roll—a California roll topped with eel and avocado—showcase this delicacy’s staying power, believed by many to increase stamina.
370 W. Main St., Hyannis.
www.misakisushi.com

Vineyards at Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod
The buzz around the tasting table with Kristen Roberts and her family-owned vineyard comes from more than a crowd. An un-oaked Chardonnay, locally fermented, has planted its earthy and visceral seat at the front of the table. Hovering nearby—on equal footing—is a light-to-medium-bodied red known to many as Cabernet Franc with family ties to a Cabernet Sauvignon. Roberts’ showcase will keep you dizzy on your toes. But a new AARP study finds a glass of wine a few times a week improves your thinking. 11 Shore Rd., North Truro.
www.trurovineyardsofcapecod.com

Whoopie Pie at the Corner Store
The Cape’s riff on pie has risen to new heights. We can thank the Pennsylvania Amish or the people of Maine for this playful treat. With its creamy or billowy-marshmallow filling, whoopies are spotted all over the Cape. Chocolate’s the fan-favorite but spruced-up batters—pumpkin spice or chocolate peanut butter—are just too tempting to resist at the Corner Store, which is way more than your average sandwich shop. 1403 Old Queen Anne Rd., Chatham, www.freshfastfun.com

Xarém
Xarém, a traditional Portuguese stew, should be no stranger to the Cape’s Portuguese or Brazilian table. This classic dish from the Algarve region of Portugal pairs our quintessential clam with sausage, ham, bacon and wine for a stew thickened with maize meal. Local chefs may tempt you with a lighter version; oh, just let them! Any new spin on an old classic is still a mighty good mainstay.

Guillermo Yingling at Blackfish
Surrounded by a posse of talented chefs and family-owned restaurants, it’s no surprise native Cape Codder Guillermo Yingling became a chef himself. It’s just in his genes. In addition to working for the group that owns Bubala’s by the Sea, among other spots, he dons an entrepreneurial jacket as one of three owners at Truro’s Blackfish, and delves into catering and consulting on their “urban flavor with local appeal.” To call this new-generation restaurateur a multi-tasker is a severe understatement.
17 Truro Center Rd., Truro.
www.capecodchefs.com/restaurant/blackfish
 

Zuppa di Pesce by Chef Jeremiah Reardon
One spoonful of Chef Reardon’s zuppa di pesce (literally, “fish soup”) and we’re hooked on those flavorful gems that simmer in the stew. Invented by Italian fisherfolk, this heralded chef’s concoction infuses fennel, celery and herbs deliciously together in a mussel-Chardonnay stock-turned-tomato-fennel-seafood medley. You taste everything at once—even the subtle, licorice-scented star anise and Pernod. 222 Main St., East Orleans.
www.nausetbeachclub.com